Protection – Care – Maintenance

Like all natural rocks and marbles, cement boards are absorbent and require the application of waterproofing materials before use

it is proven that with the proper waterproofing and regular care of cement tiles they can withstand decades of both aesthetic and technical

all floor work (placement, stamping, skirting, etc.) must be completed thoroughly and thoroughly before waterproofing
if rough surfaces are found on individual tiles, they can at this stage be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper No400
the floor must have been dry and clean from dust and whatever is xenophobic and undesirable in the final appearance
all work outside the floor is at the final stage and ensure that no work is done in the next 3 days after application of the waterproofing

before seeing the waterproofing steps we should look at the materials used as waterproofing and understand the choices they give us in terms of the end result

there are various types of waterproofing agents. However, for waterproofing tiles, solvent-based water-repellent water-repellents such as those used in marble are advisable (care not of waterproofing brick and general cement, which are widely marketed and are made up of several merchants for other types of surfaces and materials)

the choices in terms of effect have to do with the emphasis of colors and the creation of patina on the surface

are divided into the following categories: non-emphasis, gentle accentuation, intense accentuation and silky texture, intense accent and darkening

we usually recommend the application of waterproof color accent, but sometimes we want a more traditional look with more vivid colors that highlight the handmade tile and create references to its age and so choose the waterproof non-toning

all waterproofing classes are applied with the same guidelines and methodology

tools: an average size scroll roller and a corresponding scoop

first hand

apply a rich layer of waterproofing care to ensure that the waterproofing agent is absorbed across the surface and if it is not absorbed, spread it with a cloth to absorb
if we see a large quantity on the surface means that we have a lot of material and for reasons of economy we reduce the amount we stretch
second hand

after 2-3 hours of the first layer we start to apply the second layer as the first one just consider that it will require significantly less material due to the first layer
third hand

the third hand is applied like the second hand, and more attention is paid to removing excess material

after the application we take care to ensure that the floor is not soiled and dirty, and that we use it until the material is sufficiently polymerized (usually manufacturers are 7 days long)

the cement boards are not cleaned with acidic or generally aggressive cleaners (such as bleach, acaufort, vinegar etc.)
the recommended way of cleaning is warm water with green soap based pH-neutral detergent with neutral PH
the addition of a liquid wax lid to the mopping bucket is very important because it helps in waterproofing and gives more quickly the patina that all the tiles we want to acquire over time
at high traffic points, it is advisable to use mats or mats to avoid unnecessary wear and tear because the cementboards have a life expectancy far beyond common tiles
frequent cleaning is required for the best possible flooring maintenance until the acquisition of the time patina

Worried or absorbed stains?

cleaned with hot water, soap and brush
use marble cleaner locally and rinse well

then apply oxalic acid powder onto the stain and dry it dry until the stain is absorbed

you can also use and oyster for very powerful and persistent drones


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